BACKGROUND

Tradition attributes the BUPAYA PAGODA to King Pyusawhti, the third King of Bagan, who ruled Bagan Dynasty in 168 to 243 A.D. Stylistically it may be ascribed to about 11th Century A.D. Within its precincts is a shrine dedicated to the GOD of Storms (Mondaing Natt).

STRUCTURE

The dome resembles the form of a cylindrical relic casket. Above it stands on bold convex band upon which rises a tapering stupa finial.

In keeping with the tradition of building pagodas in Myanmar, the BUPAYA PAGODA also conformed to the norms set for such structures. The pagoda had a massive gravity type pyramidal profile. It was built with bricks and impressively decorated. It is a bell-shaped dome built over diminishing terraces. A finial crowned the dome. The pagoda enshrined Buddha’s relics.

THE RECONSTRUCTION

The original pagoda was completely destroyed in the 1975 earthquake. As result of this earthquake, the bulbous pagoda broke into pieces and fell into the river. It was, however, fully reconstructed using modern materials, with lesser adherence to the original design. Subsequently it was built as a gilded superstructure.  The new design is a hollow reinforced concrete structure (replacing the traditional brick structure of the past). It has been built on the traditional plan of a polygonal base. The pagoda raises up in “a series of crenelated semi-circular terraces overlooking the river”. It is now fully gilded.

BUPAYA PAGODA is one of the most notable shrines among the thousands of new or ruined Pagodas in Bagan…

BUPAYA PAGODA a bell-shaped dome built over diminishing terraces…

A finial crowned the dome and the pagoda enshrined Buddha’s relics…

The Buddha image at BUPAYA PAGODA…

Standing on the brink of Irrawaddy River at Bagan, this BUPAYA PAGODA is a conspicuous landmark to navigators…

REFERENCES

Guide to Bagan. Archaeology Dept, Ministry of Culture. 1979.

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The construction of GAW TAW PALIN TEMPLE was launched during the reign of King Sithu II (also known as King Narapatisithu, 1165 – 1211) and completed during the reign of his successor, King Nadaungmya. It is Bagan’s second tallest structure and the most imposing of the Bagan temples. There are two suggested origins of the name of the temple, which means, “throne on platform to which respect or homage is paid.” One interpretation is that it formed part of traditional ceremonials honoring royal ancestors. The other explanation, wrapped in myth, is that King Sithu had demonstrated such pride and had created so many hardships through his construction of the Sulamani Guphaya that the eminent monk Panthagu Mahathera fled to Sri Lanka for six years in protest. The king persuaded him to return and paid him great honor and homage on this spot upon his return.

STRUCTURE

The GAW TAW PALIN, a large eastward-facing two-storey temple, set on a low platform in the center of a walled enclosure with four gateways. It is located just to the north of the present Archaeological Museum. It is a brick masonry structure with stone reinforcement. Its exterior dimensions are 213 x 170.5 ft (65 x 52 m), with a solid inner core on the ground floor of almost 92 x 93.3 ft (27.99 x 28.45 m). The ground floor corridors around the central core are almost 7 ft wide (2.20 x 2.19 m). The entry shrine on the ground floor is almost 23 x 38.5 ft (6.95 x 11.72 m). The second story solid core is less than half the size of that of the ground floor. There is another shrine and entrance hall, and for the first time in Bagan architecture, the primary shrine is on the second story. Barrel and diaphragm vaults cover the shrines and corridors.

The three lower terraces and four upper terraces are topped by a square tower, conical spire and umbrella that reached 180 ft (55 m); some suggest it was 200 ft (60 m.). Unfortunately, GAW TAW PALIN was near the epicenter of the 1975 earthquake; the tower was destroyed and upper parts were heavily damaged. There were repairs between 1976 and 1982; it was further strengthened, when the tower was rebuilt as a hollow reinforced concrete structure in 1991-92. About 40% of the exterior stucco moldings are still in place.

The eminent scholar G. H. Luce in comparing GAW TAW PALIN to THATBYINNYU, wrote that the romantic style has succeeded the classic, while Strachan suggests that there is a streamlining of mass in the GAW TAW PALIN with an “upwardly directed movement” that is “tall, refined and quite elegant” and, I would add, majestically unique. Such a sublime style was never again attempted at Bagan.

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That’s the grand entrance to Gaw Taw Palin…

It is Bagan’s second tallest structure and the most imposing of the Bagan temples…

The Buddha image on the ground floor of the temple…

Gaw Taw Palin is the first time in Bagan architecture, the primary shrine is on the second story…

Gaw Taw Palin is a fine brick masonry structure with stone reinforcement…

REFERENCES

Clark, Michael and Joe Cummings. Myanmar (Burma), Lonely Planet Publications, 2000.
Guide to Bagan. Archaeology Dept, Ministry of Culture. 1979.
Myat Min Hlaing. Ancient Pagodas in Myanmar Vol. I. 1993.

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Manuha Temple was built by Manuha, the captive Mon King of Thaton.  In the historical records, it was considered one of the earliest temples at Bagan. According to the Legend, King Manuha was allowed to build this temple in 1059 A.D.

The Buddha images from this temple are an allegorical representation of the physical discomfort and mental distress the captive Mon King had to endure. The builder’s grievance is graphically demonstrated by the uncomfortably seated and reclining positioned of Buhhda whose head pointing to north that symbolizes the dying Buddha was at the moment of about to enter Nirvana.

One can climb to the top of this pagoda via the stairs at the entrance to the reclining Buddha chamber, from the back of the temple. Through a window, the viewer can then see the face of the sitting Buddha, from different aspect at this level that the gigantic Buddha’s Face was so grimed look from below, yet here, an equally gigantic smile. During the earthquake of 1975, the central roof collapsed that the largest seated Buddha,was badly damaged but since has been repaired.

STRUCTURE

The exterior and overall floor plans resemble the more remote Kyauk Gu Oh Min, a rectangular box topped by a smaller rectangle. It is a reduplicated square structure with battlemented terrace as the upper story being smaller than the lower, so that the entire building appears to assume the form of a pyramid.  It contains three images of seated Buddhas all seem too large for their enclosures, and their cramped, uncomfortable positions are said to represent the stress and lack of comfort the ‘captive king’ had to endure.  At the back, is where the huge reclining ‘Parinibbana’ Buddha;  It is said that only the reclining Buddha in the act of entering Nirvana has a smile on its face, showing that for Manuha King only death was a release from his suffering.

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It is a reduplicated square structure with battlemented terrace…

The temple reflects the physical discomfort and mental distress the captive king…

This is the place where normal lens like 18mm does not work.  Wide Angle Lens is a must to cover the whole Buddha image…

The reclining Buddha the head pointing to the north symbolizes the dying Buddha about to enter Nirvana…

This is the main entrance to the temple…

This is the alms bowl at the entrance. On the important religious occasions, people offer alms to Buddha images pouring into this bowl…  It’s of 10 feet high and 5 feet in width approximately…

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Koe Htat Kyi (translated as “the nine-tiered pagoda” in English) is located on Bargayar Road, Sanchaung Township of Yangon (formerly known as Rangoon). It is the home of an enormous sitting Buddha Image. The Buddha Image at Koe Htat Kyi pagoda is also recignized as Atula Dipatti Maha Muni Thetkya Image. Chronologically, the image was built in August, 1905. The pagoda was erected on the 14-acres compound of the Bargayar monastery. The Buddha image is a 72 feet in height.

The pavilion has a nine-tiered roof and hence it is generally referred to as the nine-tiered pagoda. In the past it was a wooded hermit for monks, quiet and peaceful. There are many monasteries, devotional halls and an ordination hall in the compound. The Buddha Image was donated by U Kyin and Daw Nge San.  There is a statue of donor U Kyin was put up by his son, U Hla Swe, to recognize the religious dedications his Dad had accomplished throughout his life.

SHOOTING AGAINST DRIZZLING RAIN

It was a Sunday.  I asked my best friend, Wynn Thein, to wake me up early in the morning because I wanted to shoot Koe Htat Kyi pagoda before I left Rangoon.  Wynn Thein had given me a call at 5:00 sharp.  Actually, I was awake for the whole night reading photography articles online.  Myanmar internet is notorious.  Yes, the connection is workable only after the midnight.  Of course everyone sleeps, so the bandwidth becomes more promising. Undoubtedly, late night is the best time for me to perform data mining.

There was drizzly rain on our way to pagoda.  I thought it would not have been a setback for our shooting since Koe Htat Kyi is an indoor Buddha image. But when we arrived, the area was totally gloomy. And my honorable friend forgot to bring the tripod. Yeap, we could not shoot well due to insufficient light.  Making hand held shots in low-light occasions is like buying a lottery ticket.  The chances to achieve sharply focused pictures is very slight.  Luckily the rain stopped at 7:00 so we made our move.  It’s such a silent and peaceful place.  I really love shooting there.

The archway on the entrance of Koe Htat Kyi Pagoda…

The hallway to the Buddha image…

The 72-feet enormous sitting Buddha at Koe Htat Kyi Pagoda…

The Buddha image was also known as Atula Dipatti Maha Muni Thetkya image…

The throne prepared for the preaching monks at ordination hall of the pagoda.  There are weekly religious events during the Buddhist lent…

When the donor, U Kyin, passed away… his son erected the statue of U Kyin…

The guardians of the Buddha image…  Burmese people believe that paying homage to these guardians protect them from harms and dangers…

The pagoda is constructed on the 14-acres compound of the Bargayar monastery…

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Dear fans and friends.  Yes, it has been couples of month that I could not update my blog.  My very standing of this blog space is to share photos taken around Burma (Myanmar).  For the sake of surviving, I am out of Burma for 5 months.  And honestly, I have been way too busy to update my blog on regular basis.  More importantly, I do not want to share photos without description and background.  On the other hand, I could not invest enough time to write those stories and facts.  Bagan photos are ready but not the descriptions.

I have been receiving new fans and came across with their appreciating comments.  Some fans even sent me personal mails to upload new photos.  So today is for you, my friends.  Some photos did not hit my norms, but then… it’s just another fool proof of me. Thanks for visiting my blog and I will try to do more. Enjoy!!!

BACKGROUND

According to Burmese tradition, it was on a hillock at this site that one thousand military officers of the king were drawn up as a guard of honor to welcome the landing in Burma of the relics of the Buddha brought over from India more than two thousand years ago. An account from ancient histories of the building of the Pagoda states that the Buddhist King Sihadipa gave one of his ministers a sacred hair from the Buddha’s head and two body relics and this minister, renowned for his goodness and faith, consulted a famous religious leader and, on his advice, chose the Botahtaung Mount on the bank of Yangon River at a distance one thousand tars (7,000 cubits) in a South-Easterly direction from the Shwedagon Pagoda and there enshrined the sacred relics.

WORLD WAR II

The pagoda was completely destroyed on 8 November 1943 when the RAF, which was bombing the nearby Yangon wharves also hit the pagoda. The pagoda was left in “blackened ruins“.

REBUILDING

Rebuilding of the pagoda started on the same day that the country gained independence from the UK: 4 January 1948. Part of the excavation process, a relic chamber was discovered. The chamber in size 20′ x 20′ and 6 in height gradually decreasing in size towards the top and appearing like a huge pot placed up-sided down to cover completely what lay inside.

In the very center of this treasure vault was discovered a wonderful stone casket in the shape of a pagoda with a diameter of 23 ins, and 39 ins, high. Encircling this stone casket were figures of nats carved out of literate and evidently placed there to act as sentinels.

One of the terracotta plaques excavated from the relic chamber bears an image of the Lord Buddha and though affected by age and moisture it is exceptionally important. On the reverse side are inscribed characters which are very close to the ancient Brahmani script which came from Southern India.

When the gold Pagoda was lifted up, a tiny gold cylinder of 3/4 ins. length with a diameter of 5/12 ins. was found and in this tiny cylinder were found two small body relics each the size of a mustard seed and what is believed to be a Sacred Hair of the Buddha. This hair was coiled round and fastened with a little lacquer on which were traces of gold plaster.

STRUCTURE

The new pagoda is of original design and in height 131 ft. 8 ins, on abase of 96 ft. x 96 ft. The main attraction is the stupa’s hollow inside, which has a mirrored maze-like walkway lined with glass showcases containing many ancient relics and artifacts that were sealed inside the earlier pagoda.

These fruit basket are so common in Burmese tradition.  People pay homage to Lord Buddha with Banana, Coconut (prepared with gold foils), scented water, candle and joss sticks…  In Burmese, we call it SHWE OHN PWE…

That’s the main entrance to the Botahtaung Pagoda…

The Buddha statue at the main entrance…

The treasure vault which houses the Buddha relics…

Like other pagodas in Burma, Botahtaung Pagoda stands on the spacey land and there is a big religious function hall (Dha-Ma-Yone) on the southern corner of the compound…

It is famous Botahtaung Pagoda of Yangon (Rangoon).  It was taken back in 2009 June, I few days before I came to Singapore…

A lady offering water and flower to the Buddha image around the pagoda…

It is very common to see these spiritual statues (guards) at the entrance of pagodas and stupas in Burma. It is believed that these spirits can hinder bad luck…

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Built in 1886, Holy Trinity Church (Yangon) perhaps the oldest colonial structure in Yangon. Holy Trinity Cathedral, an Anglican Church, was first used for Divine Service on the Second Sunday of Advent, 1865. The church held no bell, no pulpit, no font, no punkah (!), no lamps, no organ or other musical instrument, but at least it was there. It had cost 72,000 rupees, of which 10,000 had been raised by public subscription. And greater things were in store, for the English population of Rangoon was growing, and quite soon there was talk of the replacing the church with a cathedral.

STRUCTURE & LAYOUTS

This is the Anglican cathedral in Rangoon designed by Robert Fellowes Chisholm. Seemingly transplanted from England – but note the adaptation to the tropics in the porte-cochere at the base of the tower to shelter worshipers from the rain.  Although the foundation stone had been laid in 1886 by the then Viceroy of India Lord Dufferin, due to a shortage of funds it took 9 years to complete the church vestibule. The spire was added in 1913 and the bell tower installed in the following year. During the Japanese Occupation of Rangoon, the cathedral was used as a brewery! After liberation, the chapel was dedicated to the British/Indian 14th and 12th Armies who fought in the Burma Campaign.

Holy Trinity Cathedral is located at 446 Bogyoke Aung San Street, on the edge of the downtown area, a little past the Bogyoke Aung San Market as you come from the Yangon Station.  It is, of course, listed among those Top 200 buildings on the Yangon City Development Committee’s Heritage List.

Sources: ChurchCrawler, TalesOfAsia

Whenever I plan to shoot, there it rains… Finally, I had my shooting with an umbrella… A nice framing shot from the front right corner of the compound…

Built in 1886, that’s the oldest colonial structure in Yangon…

Feel the grandness of the cathedral… That’s located at the heart of Yangon…

That’s a bird-eye view of the cathedral taken from the fly-over…

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Today, 26 Oct 2009, is the one year birthday anniversary of my blog.  So, here is anniversary special post for you.  I have been busy with work lately.  My apology for not updating the blog on regular basis.  But I will try my best.  YOU know how much I love my blog.

A BRIEF BACKGROUND

THE THARABA GATEWAY (also known as SARABHA GATEWAY) is the main gate of the east wall and the only structure left of the old city built by King Pyinbya in the 9th century A.D.  Traces of stucco carvings on the frieze are visible on the exterior walls.  The entrance to it is guarded by two guardian nats or spirits.  The two spirits are of brother and sister, each of whose image is deposited in a masonry shrine, the male on the left and the female on the right as once enters the city by it.

Yes, that’s the entrance to Bagan…

I saw this cart passing by and had a snapshot...

It was Ko J's idea to climb up to the wall and shoot... Finally, we did that...

That's the inner part of gate... That's our ride during Bagan trip...

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Situated about half a mile west of Nyaung U, Shwezigon Pagoda is a solid, cylindrical structure resting on three square terraces, a prototype of Burmese stupas.  It has a bold waist-band round the bell shaped dome above which rises a series of concentric moldings ending in a final and crowned by an umbrella.  It has up-turned lotus, petals, celestial stairways and so forth like a sacred reliquary of typical Bagan architecture.  It was built by King Anawrahta under the guidance of Shin Arahan but left in unfinished state.  And completed by King Kyansittha (1084 – 1113 A.D.).  Around the terraces of the pagoda, there are, set in panels, enamelled plaques illustrating the scenes in the previous lives of Buddha.  It is believed to contain the frontal bone and a tooth of Buddha and is thus held in great veneration by the Buddhists around Burma.  On each of the four sides of the pagoda is a small temple which enshrines a standing Buddha, 13 feet high, of the Gupta school of art. On either side of the east of approach to the pagoda is a square stone pillar with Mon inscriptions on all four sides dedicated by King Kyansittha (Kyanzittha).

NINE FAMOUS WONDERS

Shwezigon pagoda embraces nine wonders:
(1) it’s umbrella being steadfast without being fastened with cable
(2) its shadow never extend beyond its fence walls
(3) gold leaf papers dropped from atop not getting beyond the walls
(4) its walled environs never being congested regardless of a huge mass of pilgrims
(5) no human could be the first in offering alms early in the morning
(6) the stupa seeming to be higher than it is
(7) the drum sounded from one side cannot be heard from the other side
(8) no rain water remains within the walls
(9) the star flower plants bear flowers all years round

Credits: My beloved Dad for his special gift, Pictorial Guide to Bagan…

It was around 20:00 when I arrived the pagoda, right after the rain stopped…  A wide angle shot from north-western corner of the pagoda compound…

It was very first time I tried my Nikon D-90 Live View function with Long Exposure shot…  Thanks Ko. J for his Long Exposure tutorial…  Again there is the reflection on the floor…

It has up-turned lotus, petals, celestial stairways and so forth like a sacred reliquary of typical Bagan architecture…

One of the nine wonders of Shwezigon pagoda is that the stupa seeming to be higher than it is…

On each of the four sides of the pagoda is a small temple which enshrines a standing Buddha, 13 feet high, of the Gupta school of art…

The local produces and souvenirs are available along the corridor towards the pagoda…

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“Thatbyinnyu” signifies “omniscience”, one of the attributes of the Buddha.  The temple was built around the middle of the 12th century A.D. by King Alaungsithu, grandson and successor of the King Kyansittha who erected the Ananda Temple.  Standing within the city walls, some 500 yards to the south-west of the Ananda, the Thatbyinnyu rises the height of 201 feet above the ground and overtops all other monuments.  Its general plan is not unlike the Ananda, but it does not, like the latter form a symetrical cross.  The eastern porch alone projects considerably from the wall.  It has two main stories and the Buddha image is seated on the upper floor.  The central stairways guarded by two standing figures of guardians faces the eastern hall and entrance.  The steps lead to a circumambulatory corridor round the central mass.  Climbing up one of the pair of stairs built in the thickness of the walls one reaches the top of the vestibule from where an external flights of stairs lead to the upper story.  The pilasters combine to give a soaring effect to the monument.  The two tiers of windows in each story make the interior bright and airy.  But the walls are bare and the recesses along the plinth and terraces do not contain any glazed plaque.

FACTS

Its height earned it the title of BAGAN TOWER.  In olden days, it was used as a library for monks.  Today its height gives a vantage point for enjoying the famous scene of sunset at Bagan.

The name “Thatbyinnyu” signifies “omniscience”, one of the attributes of the Buddha…

Thatbyinnyu rises the height of 201 feet above the ground and overtops all other monuments…

The pilasters combine to give a soaring effect to the monument…

The corridors on the ground floor has numerous Buddha images adjacent to the windows…

Its height earned it the title of BAGAN TOWER.  My tele shot from SHWESANDAW PHAYA…

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Built by King Kyansittha in 1091 A.D., it is the finest and the most venerated temple at Bagan.  Legend says that it was built according to the plan furnished by Indian Buddhist monks which purported to their cave-temple in the Nandamula mountain held to be in the Himalayas.  This temple symbolizes the endless wisdom (Ananta Panna) of the Buddha just as the Thatbyinnyu symbolizes the omniscience of the Tathagata.  Hence the name Ananta, which later transformed to Ananda, the name od Buddha’s cousin.

Of all edifices built by King Kyansittha, Ananda Phaya near Tharapa Gate excels in architecture and decorative artworks – 35-foot high teak doors with intricate wood carvings, marble statues, murals and glazed figures, the four facades with four standing Buddha images representing the four Buddhas that had already been in this world of Buddha.

STRUCTURE and LAYOUT

It is in plan a square of nearly 200 feet to the side and broken on each side by projection of large gabled vestibules, which convert the plan into a perfect Greek cross.   The vestibules are somewhat lower than the main mass of the building, which elevates itself to a height of 35 feet in two tiers of windows.  Above this rise successively diminishing terraces, the last of which just affording breadth for the spire which crowns and completes the edifice.  The lower half of this spire is in the form of a mitre-like pyramid adapted from the temples of India; the upper half is the same molded taper pinnacle that terminates the common bell-shaped pagodas of Bagan.  The gilded htee (umbrella) caps the whole at a height of 168 feet above the ground.

On western facade, inside the statue of Buddha, is a statue of Shin Arahan who had brought the Theravada Buddhist to Bagan and he statue of King Kyansittha.  In the main Tazaung on that facade, an enlarged likeness of a pair of footprint of Buddha complete with 108 characters as written in Pali treaties.

That’s the lake inside Ananda compound.  There’s a shadow of the temple in the lake. It was Ko J who showed me the shadow and I made this shot…

That’s very first time I learn to know about playing with SKY and CLOUDS mounting Wide Angle Lens on my Camera…

That was the result of FRAMING technique showed by Ko J…  I learned a lot from him during my Bagan trip…

35-feet Buddha image on the Southern wing of The Grand Ananda…

The four facades with four standing Buddha images representing the four Buddhas that had already been in this world of Buddha…

This statue is revered at the Eastern wing of the temple…

A religious glance from Northern wing…

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